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There's no denying, however, that SIG fans generally tend to find 'true' German and particularly West German SIGs somewhat more collectible and desirable, and so a brief overview of how to distinguish different SIGs based on their actual provenances might be useful. As to whether or not those differences make one version better than the other is a matter of debateā¦ better left to discussion forums and Facebook groups. For a discussion on differences on the P226 model, for example, check out my P226 Version History and Head-to-Head Comparison video. Those differences depend upon which models we're taking about. those made with parts made in Germany and assembled in the US. There are a number of differences between SIGs made in Germany (or West Germany) vs.
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Acceptance stamp: 2 x E/37 left on frame. Finish: highpolish-finish blued (this one is refinished) Grips: black Bakelit-grips with 'SuS'-Logo on left side checkered: Serial number: 6-digit number right on frame. Sig P229 - Frame and barrel AD42XXX made in Germany - 40 S&W - inside of grips indicate 8/94 - purchased new spring 1995.
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German - S129 XXX - 1991 (kd date code on slide along with proof marks shown at the beginning of this thread). Germany' stamped on the slide - when that's actually not the case. Some owners mistakenly (but innocently) assume that a P-Series SIG Sauer with 'Made in Germany' stamped on the slide, or a frame engraved 'Frame Made in Germany' is no different than a pistol with 'Made in W. I'll also see guns referred to as 'German-made' when that might not actually be the case. Often, in firearms-related forums and social media groups like the SIG Sauer Legion Facebook group, I'll see the terms 'West German SIG' and 'German SIG' used interchangeably.